trafficSnarl of traffic, amoeba-like, motor cycles squeezing between bumpers for miles. Everything takes forever. Lunch ordered ahead, yet we wait over an hour 'til the first 2 sandwiches come out - and come out - two by two - at 15 minute intervals. Have we stumbled into Noah's arch? Lunch for 12 takes 2-1/2 hours. I imagine they have one George Forman grill back there.

Buying phones- today's big adventure. Laughing, laughing, our 'escort,' Motauge marching stealthily along the sometimes-sidewalk with all of us strung behind like deer-in-the-headlight-ducks in a row.
         "Keep up! Keep up!"

Suddenly he disappears down a staircase - wait, are we going on a subway? We don't have small bills yet!
Deeper, the stairway folds back on itself and spills into a long half-tiled tunnel, around another fold, and up again! We just traversed beneath a busy street.

Three more streets to cross, each of them circles of weaving chaos that honks to a halt as we part the sea.
Gayle asks "does anyone ever get hit?"
Startles a concerned glance as he hurries off along a wider walkway now.

4 men crowded into a sidewalk kiosk rush the counter as we enter the plaza, everyone talking at once, waving phones at us, colors, features,
"No, the cheapest you have,"
Montauge intercedes.
There's no attempt to hide their disappointment as their commissions shrink.
Passports & photocopies of visas, applications and sim card numbers, ruppees and calling cards flying back and forth across the counter like 52 pick-up. Somehow, each of us ends up with a phone.

TrafficCamel"Everyone set? I have called for cars, it's too dangerous for you to walk."